Djerba, or Jerba, which covers 200 square miles and is now owned by Tunisia, the largest island that is considered part of North Africa, is located in the Gulf of Gabes, just off the Cap Bon peninsula. Nobody should leave Tunisia without experiencing this legendary place. It is almost certain that Djerba was Homer’s inspiration for the island that served as Odysseus’ refuge from the sirens on his journey across the Mediterranean. Djerba is indeed a paradise, overflowing with flowers, orange and olive trees, dotted with the unique whitewashed square houses known as menzels. Djerba has gorgeous beaches, alluring historic ruins, and the bustling market of Houmt Souk, but arguably its biggest draw for Americans is the small town of Ajim, where exterior scenes from the first Star Wars the film was shot.
Djerba has had several different names over the last two thousand years. It was called Meninx until about AD 300. C., home to three major towns, one of which was a major producer of the famous murex clothing dye made from sea snails. The island was more densely populated in Roman times than it is now. During the Middle Ages, Christians from neighboring Sicily and Aragon in Spain fought for it and several military forts from this period still stand, along with dozens of small mosques.
Homer relates how Odysseus, fleeing from the sirens, came across a beautiful island where delicate fruits grew in abundance, home to the lotus-eaters. All of his sailors ate this delicious fruit (believed by many to be sweet dates; be sure to try some Djerba dates while you’re here) and eating the fruit lost all memory of their homeland and their families. Djerba is home to dozens of historic mosques providing excellent examples of Mediterranean Islamic architecture along with the impregnable fortress of El Kebir dating from the 13th century, which over the centuries has served to garrison Arab, Spanish, French and Turkish.
Without a doubt, the focal point of the whole island is the beautiful whitewashed town of Houmt Souk, where the buildings seem to have been whitened like snow by a magical and purifying rain. About five miles from the capital is the palm-fringed town of Guellala, world-renowned for its brilliant ceramics, resplendent with primary colors.
Djerba is also home to the ancient El Ghriba Synagogue, also known as the Djerba Synagogue, located in the village of Hara Seghira, a couple of miles southwest of Houmt Souk, which is the central urban area of the entire island. The synagogue is a holy destination for many Tunisian Jews during an annual pilgrimage held in commemoration of Lag Ba-Omer, a holiday established 33 days after Passover. The interior, with its rich network of stained glass windows and tiles, is a haven of peace where the faithful pray in the cool shade. Though today primarily an Islamic nation, Tunisia has a rich Jewish heritage that stretches back continuously for 25 centuries. Some of the names with the deepest historical roots in Tunisia are Jewish families.
The exquisite storybook village of Ajim in Tataouine was personally chosen by George Lucas as the location to film memorable scenes from Star Wars. The dreamlike landscapes here, so reminiscent of the paintings of Dalí (who often came to Djerba) continue to amaze all who come here to experience the site in person. Admission is free, but I always make it a point to tip the guards.
As for dining and overnight stays, El Farida in Sidi Mahrez, is the most classically beautiful and luxurious inn on the island, with a kitchen serving excellent traditional cuisine and absolutely fresh, locally caught seafood. For dining in Houmt Souk, the Horoun restaurant specializes in fish, while Guestile in Midoun is perfect for a relaxed meal of fish and couscous. Don’t leave the island without visiting Café Les Arcades where you’ll find the locals playing backgammon and smoking their hookahs.