Do you want to learn to surf? Sure, you most likely have a romantic notion of gliding seamlessly through a cascading wall of water, carving up and down the face of the wave, riding to the beach… right?
Wrong. Chances are, if you’ve never surfed before, get ready for, shall we say, a very humbling experience. I hate to break it to you, but learning to surf is not easy. Sure, anyone can take a lesson and be technically ‘surfing’ in just a few minutes on soft, crumbly waves. But come on, any surfer will tell you that’s not really surfing. If you want to experience the thrill of surfing so indescribable that it is said “only a surfer knows the feeling”, then you will need a lot of practice, patience and, most likely, some useful tips and advice.
If you stick with it, past the embarrassing falls and initial discomfort, you will eventually experience that incredible ‘thrill’, but know that it could change your life!
Paddling a surfboard: 3 tips for the beginner surfer
1) Stand on your surfboard with your hips centered and balanced. Imagine that your surfboard is like a seesaw; you want the nose and tail to be evenly balanced. If you get too far forward, your surfboard will pearl; if you are too far back, you will sacrifice speed and have difficulty catching waves. As a general rule of thumb, keep the front end of your surfboard floating just a couple of inches out of the water as you paddle.
2) ‘Ankle-to-Ankle’ – To help prevent rocking from side to side (left to right), you’ll want to keep your ankles close together. This may seem difficult at first, but the key to rowing effectively is a strong core. Keeping your ankles together while paddling the surfboard will strengthen your core and improve your balance. Just remember ‘ankle to ankle’ the next time you feel wobbly and I guarantee this little trick will help.
#3) Cup your hands like you have water to drink. This is how you want your hands to be when paddling. Stretch your arms out in front of you one at a time and dip your cupped hands deeply all the way through. Try to keep your shoulders or hips from swaying too much from side to side by keeping your core balanced and straight. This will help your surfboard plane through the water, improving speed and ultimately making it easier to paddle.
*Special Tip: Take note of which surfers seem to be catching the most waves. Look at them closely and observe their way of paddling. Are your ankles apart? Does the nose of your surfboard float just a few inches out of the water? Is your rowing stroke even and consistent? Chances are they’ve been surfing for years, so don’t worry if you’re not catching as many waves as they are. Learning to surf is a process that takes time and a lot of practice.
First practice your posture on the beach.
The first thing to know before trying to stand on a surfboard is whether you are a “regular” or a “dumb” surfer. No, not if you look dumb or not surfing, because believe me, all beginner surfers look dumb while learning to surf.
So what am I talking about? Well, the terms regular and dumb refer to which foot you naturally place forward on your surfboard. A ‘normal’ footer navigates left foot forward, while a ‘dumb’ footer navigates right foot forward. If you’ve ever tried skateboarding or snowboarding, it’s usually the same stance.
I’m not sure? These three techniques should help you figure it out:
#1 Bend your knees and find a relaxed and balanced posture as if you were surfing. Try to determine which forward foot feels more comfortable. Usually the stronger foot is placed back to help put weight on the tail of the surfboard for turning.
#2 Lie on your stomach as if you were paddling and then quickly jump into your surfing position. Notice which foot naturally places forward.
#3 This simple trick requires the help of a friend. Find a level place to stand, close your eyes and relax, and without announcing when, ask your friend to gently push you from behind so that you naturally take a step forward. Most likely, the foot you put forward to regain your balance reflects your natural surfing stance.
I’m not sure yet? Don’t worry, you should be able to figure it out after a few trips.
Note: It is important to always place the strap on the rear foot. This will help prevent the strap from wrapping around your legs.
Where should a beginner learn to surf?
If you have never surfed before or are still in the learning stages, you may need some suggestions to choose an appropriate beach to learn to surf. Let’s start by providing a simple explanation of the different types of waves:
A) Beach Breaks: Sandy bottom, typically breaks in shallow water near shore. These waves often break best near piers or rock jetties. The shape of the wave is shaped by the changing contour of the sand below, therefore wave quality can vary greatly seasonally or even daily as undercurrents constantly adjust the position of the sand below. beginner to learn to surf (initially). The shallow water makes it easier to stand up when you fall off the board, and the sandy bottom usually has few hazards to step on. However, watch out for swimmers! Most of the beaches during the summer have designated areas for bathers only. Look for the ‘black ball flag’ and stay away from that area. You are a surfer now so you have to hang out in the surf zone from now on 🙂
B) Reef Breaks: these types of waves are formed by rock or reef bottoms. Some of the most treacherous waves in the world break on super shallow coral reefs. Oahu’s world famous ‘North Shore’ is made up almost exclusively of shallow reefs. However, as a beginner, you may not be ready to conquer huge spitting barrels just yet. Don’t worry, the best thing about reefs is their diversity. As you progress past the initial stage of learning to stand up, you will most likely want to head towards a reef that offers gentle sloping waves. Reefs can provide longer rides than beach breaks and give you a chance to really feel your surfboard glide under your feet. That first wave of ‘heads’ you catch will stay with you forever. Note: Reefs can often be busier than beach breaks, so make sure you master the basics (paddling, turtle diving, and turning your board quickly) to avoid bumping into other surfers.
C) Point Breaks: Point Breaks can offer some of the best and longest rides available. Properly breaking against a ‘point’: These waves generally bend around the outer edge of a bay or peninsula, and may have sand, rock, or reef bottoms. Famous examples include my personal favorites Rincón in Santa Barbara or Honolua Bay, Maui. If you’re not familiar with these spots, google them and you’ll see photos of long, smooth, perfectly contoured waves just begging to be ridden. The kind of waves that the dreamy student-surfer would scribble in her notebook during class…just perfection! Note: perfection usually doesn’t go unnoticed, so be prepared to battle it out with a bunch of other wave-hungry surfers looking for the perfect ride. Caution: Only for intermediate and advanced surfers.
D) The Rivermouth – Often the most fickle of surf breaks, rivermouths are essentially beach breaks with sandy bottoms, but under the right conditions they can occasionally rival in shape and form any of the best reef or point breaks out there. Rivermouth waves usually come on after a heavy rain when an avalanche of water trying to reach the sea pushes a temporary accumulation of sand into just the right spot to channel incoming swell into walls of water. Caution: Beware of water pollution in urban runoff.
In short, stick to the beach breaks as you master the fundamentals of paddling and balance on the board, but don’t be afraid to venture out onto the longboard reefs for a real adventure!
Surfing terms for beginners
The following is a mini-glossary of navigation-related keywords and phrases, some of which have been used so far:
Black-Ball – A yellow flag with a black ball in the center used by lifeguards to warn surfers of a prohibited surfing area.
Barrel: The ultimate ride is when the crest of a wave folds in on itself and forms a cylinder with enough room to provide a “tube” for the surfer to pass through. Related Terms: Pulling In; being shaken, stung, tubed, or otherwise tubed; filthy wells; the green room
Droping in: Refers to the critical point when a surfer stands up on a wave that is cresting. (Entered In), used to describe the act of a surfer incorrectly riding in front of another surfer on the same wave. See also: snake
Face-Wave: The crest of a wave that surfers ride. It usually breaks at the outer peak. It could be considered the opposite of bleached waves.
A fish
(a) Fish: No, not the kind that swim stealthily under and around you. A fish in this sense refers to a type of surfboard. Usually shorter than a typical modern shortboard, often modeled after vintage designed surfboards from the 70’s.
(a) Gun – taller, sleeker, narrower surfboard used by advanced surfers to ride bigger waves.
Kook: A derogatory term used to describe, well… usually beginning surfers who don’t know what they’re doing in the water. Basically equivalent to the not-so-flattering term “idiot”. If you can’t find one, then it’s most likely you… right, kidding?!
Pearl(ing): This happens when the front of your surfboard dives underwater while riding a wave, causing your surfboard to stop abruptly, most likely launching you forward and falling of the surfboard.
Rip current: Strong current of water that heads directly towards the sea. Look for slightly brown or discolored and choppy water. If you get caught in the current, swim parallel to the shoreline to escape.
Snake(d): Describes how another surfer unjustifiably interrupted him. See also: drop (on someone).
Stoked: To be super excited about something, awesome! Namely. The waves are shooting up, I’m so excited right now!
White-Wash: The kind of foamy white waves that have already broken in on themselves and are falling towards the shore. Beginners generally practice surfing these waves first before tackling the faster head waves that break at the outer peak.
The main rule is to have fun!